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In many ways the work of a critic is easy. But there are times when a critic truly risks something

and that is in the discovery and defense of the new.

The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations.

The new needs friends.

This is exerted from critic Anton Ego's climactic monologue in the 2007 Pixar film Ratatoue

Brad Bird's weirdly libertarian masterpiece.

And in Los Angeles in 2011, it was indeed a critic who forever altered the fate of a months-old breakfast truck with an eye-catching but stomach-churning name.

Founded by Alvin Kailon, a fine dining chef who cut his teeth in the flourishing

Portland food scene, the concept was meant to elevate the quick service breakfast sandos,

common at bodegas, but less seen in the coffee shop culture of Los Angeles.

With just enough self-funding to last six months, Kailan took his moonshot, and after

critic Ruth Ryschel posted a rave about its titular dish, a coddled egg served over whipped potatoes,

the truck took off like the Houston 500, and by 2013, Kylon and partner Johnny Lee had a brick and mortar with an hour long wait in

LA's famed Grand Central Market.

But over a decade later, the eatery is no longer new, no longer in need of discovery and defense. It's now a global chain with

outposts in Vegas, London, and Kuwait, as well as locations in Asia

licensed to the Korean franchise holder of Dunkin Donuts and Shake Shack.

It even had an Australian franchise denied because its revolting brand name was deemed

...