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Climbing Gold

Margo Hayes: Renaissance Woman

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 20 September 2024

⏱️ 66 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Ms. 5.15 – that was the moniker the climbing world bestowed on Margo Hayes after she became the first woman to climb the grade. Two more 5.15’s followed and Margo seemed poised to be a defining climber of her generation. Yet, in the background, Margo was quietly struggling with Lyme disease and exploring other interests when she wasn’t healthy enough to give climbing her all. What does a professional climber owe their sport, their community, and what do they owe themselves?  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face  COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.  LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any order  Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube

Transcript

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0:00.0

Alex, I'm curious whether you've ever felt pigeonholed by your climbing achievements.

0:07.9

I've never felt totally pigeonholed. I don't feel like I have to go soloing all the time,

0:12.2

but I do definitely get all the same questions all the time. I mean, even at the Olympics,

0:18.4

people are like, oh, could you free solo that route? And you're like, no, it's the

0:22.2

frigging Olympics. It's the hardest route in the world. I'm like, no, I'm not free soloing that route.

0:25.9

You're like, God, that's so annoying. How do you? Like, literally, like, at least a dozen people

0:33.7

asked, like, oh, would you solo that? And I'm like, no, obviously not. This is the hardest thing in the entire world. You're like, I would maybe do the speed route really slowly.

0:43.7

Yeah, and even that, I'd feel slightly uncomfortable. After the free rider, did you feel like you

0:51.0

had to rethink your version for what it meant to be successful in climbing for

0:59.2

you?

1:00.8

After free-selling-o-cap, I had a big gap.

1:04.5

I just had to come up with something that excited me in the same way.

1:07.7

I mean, basically, when you have a big dream and you're training and you're excited about

1:10.3

something for years and then all of a sudden you're done and you're like, now what am I

1:14.1

excited about? And so I think I had to sort of rediscover, you know, my own excitement in a way. But the thing is

1:19.7

I was always excited to go climbing. So it wasn't that big of a deal. But certainly I'd get asked what's next all the time. You know, everybody would be asking, like,

1:29.4

what's the big thing that's past L-CAP?

1:32.7

And you're kind of like, man, when you have a 10-year life dream,

1:35.1

it's not like you have another one lined up right behind it.

1:37.1

You know, it's not like Domino's or something.

1:38.8

Yeah.

1:39.1

Where you're like, oh, I finished my life goal.

...

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