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Climbing Gold

Put Me In Coach

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 24 May 2024

⏱️ 53 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

When Kris Hampton launched the Power Company, training for climbing was in an awkward adolescence. Research and tactics were woefully behind adjacent sports like gymnastics. Gym sessions were a stop gap for time outside and training programs were the realm of competitive youth teams and a few hardened professionals. We dive into the evolution of training, the difference between a coach and a trainer, and how close we are to the limits of human possibility.  Written in Stone Kris' podcast Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any drink mix order  AeroPress use promo code CLIMBINGGOLD to save 20% off your order  Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get 20% any purchase (new customers only) COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart

Transcript

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0:00.0

Alex, you know, you've been climbing for how many years now?

0:04.0

28.

0:05.2

Have you ever had a coach in those 28 years?

0:08.4

When I first started climbing at the gym, I was on the youth team, so I had, you know,

0:12.2

there was a coach for the team, so there was a fellow that helped teach us technique and movement

0:16.9

and things like that.

0:18.1

So yeah, I had a coach a little bit.

0:19.6

And then I've done a few sessions

0:22.2

of sort of private coaching or maybe it's more like training over the years, you know, where you

0:27.0

sort of, yeah, just have some, it's like consultations with people a handful of times. But I've never

0:34.6

really had a coach coach. Did you ever, Did you ever need coaching on your mental approach to climbing?

0:42.6

Yeah, you're laughing, but no, I read The Rock Warriors Way.

0:45.0

I read all the sort of mental training books, especially back when I was starting.

0:49.0

Because, I mean, I had to learn how to climb on gear, same as everybody else.

0:51.8

I mean, I was gripped.

0:52.5

I thought the gear would all fall out.

0:53.6

I thought I was soloing all the time. I probably was solding all the time.

0:57.6

That's how I got into soling. But no, I definitely read everything available about the mental side

1:02.7

of climbing as well. And really had to practice it just as much as anybody else.

1:07.7

Obviously, you've played in a world where it's like you follow training plans, you go through

1:12.7

that, you take the feedback. But do you think there's a difference between training and coaching?

1:18.0

Yeah, well, I think climbers, I mean, I think I often use the terms interchangeably, and I think

...

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