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Climbing Gold

Roundtable: Should We Make Old Routes Safer?

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 16 June 2023

⏱️ 53 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

A route’s history is important, but does it make it sacred? As our sport grows, people are considering whether adding bolts to existing routes to make it safer or more accessible might be a valid idea. Prolific first ascensionist, student of the sport and arguably America’s best sport climber Jonathan Siegrist joins the Climbing Gold team to discuss. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous Athletic Greens

Transcript

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0:00.0

Alex, will you introduce our guest?

0:10.4

Jonathan Seagrist is America's best sport climber, which, you know, is succinct, but I think he's basically the...

0:18.0

I think Jonathan Zegrois might be the best sport climber the U.S. has ever seen, you know, besides Chris Sharma maybe.

0:24.7

But Jonathan has done more hard new rooting in the U.S. than anyone else.

0:30.5

And that's something that most people don't know about him, but he has put up more 14 pluses and 15 minuses in the U.S. or in North America than anyone else.

0:40.1

He's prolific.

0:41.9

I spent years trying to convince him to go on 8a.nU and actually have a scorecard and all that.

0:46.2

And then when he finally logged all his things, I think he was number two in the world.

0:49.4

Or maybe he was number one for a hot second.

0:51.3

But it was like one of those things he never wanted to play the game.

0:53.6

He was always like not into it. And then he finally does. And you're like, you're like number two or

0:57.6

three in the world. Like that's, that seems pretty good. Like is that good enough? You're like,

1:02.4

Jesus. Like right behind Adam Andor or something. You're like, huh, you seem pretty Way to go. Yeah, they're like, geez, why don't you do this sooner?

1:12.6

Even by numbers, he's maybe done more hard things than Chris at this point, I'm not sure.

1:16.6

No, by numbers, I guess Chris is still on 15C and Jonathan hasn't, but it's pretty, and maybe in a different way than Charma too, is that he's actually also put up a lot of,

1:29.0

like, it's not that he's just bolted the one king line at a crag, it's that he actually has done

1:34.6

a fair amount of development too.

1:36.7

Maybe the good way to put it is that Jonathan Seagris is an equal opportunity new router.

1:41.8

Like, he will just fill in a wall.

1:43.8

And, you know, whether the line looks incredible or not, you know, if it's climbable, eventually he'll

1:48.5

get around to bolting it, climbing it, and moving on to the next thing.

1:52.0

And so, I mean, he and his dad, his dad is also an incredible climber, have established

...

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