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Good Food

The legacy of Edna Lewis, birria, microplastics

Good Food

KCRW

Society & Culture

4.51K Ratings

🗓️ 21 March 2025

⏱️ 57 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

A Black chef and cookbook author finally gets her due!

  • Deb Freeman traces the life of Edna Lewis, author of "The Taste of Country Cooking," in a new documentary.
  • While some people spent the pandemic starting sourdough, Jesse Valenciana got busy perfecting his birria.
  • Memo Torres visits an Inglewood backyard, where three generations of the Sandoval family make birria using an abuela's recipe.
  • Carolyn Kormann shares alarming facts about how microplastics have made their way into our bodies.
  • Chef Caroline Leff of Stir Crazy turns up at the farmers market for a favorite root vegetable.

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Transcript

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0:00.0

From KCRW, I'm Evan Klyman, and this is Good Food.

0:12.9

In 2024, the New York Times declared the taste of country cooking to be the most influential American cookbook of the past 100 years.

0:22.8

So why don't more people know about it? And why isn't its author Edna Lewis a household name?

0:30.3

Well, the simple answer is because she was black. Born and raised in rural Virginia,

0:36.2

Miss Lewis eventually settled in New York City.

0:39.1

She became the chef of a celebrated cafe known for its southern-inspired dishes.

0:44.3

Years later, with encouragement from Judith Jones, Juliet Child's editor, Edna Lewis wrote the taste of country cooking.

0:52.8

The book emphasized how seasonality and vegetable dishes drive southern cooking.

0:58.2

Beyond the recipes, it contains a trove of valuable information about southern and

1:02.8

African-American food ways.

1:05.4

Now she's the subject of a documentary, Finding Edna Lewis.

1:09.9

For executive producer and host Deb Freeman,

1:12.7

the goal of the film is to shine a spotlight on Miss Lewis's life

1:16.1

and share her work with a wider audience.

1:19.2

Hi, Deb.

1:20.4

Hi.

1:21.4

I so enjoyed the documentary.

1:25.0

Oh, that's so good to hear.

1:26.6

There was something about the cinematography and the rhythm of it that for me mirrored

1:35.3

Miss Lewis's way of being.

1:38.8

It was very elegant.

1:41.1

Well, no.

...

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