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Climbing Gold

Give and Take

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 30 August 2024

⏱️ 42 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

After a protracted battle over bolts and sport climbing, American climbers nearly lost the ability to climb on public lands in the early 1990s. It would have completely altered the course of our sport. Fortunately, lawyer and climber Armando Menocal rose to the challenge of protecting climbing for generations to come, despite the fact that many climbers hoped he would fail. We take a peek into the early days of the Access Fund and Leici Hendrix adds perspective on the importance of local climbing organizations.  Armando Menocal Climbing Advocacy Fund Originally aired in 2021.  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face  LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any order COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Back in 2021, in our first season, we ran an episode called Give and Take.

0:04.6

It was a story about how climbing in America, climbing on public lands, nearly was banned, effectively and in climbing in America.

0:13.5

You know, a lot of times we think about figures like Yvonne Cheneard, Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell,

0:18.6

some of the most important names in American climbing.

0:20.9

But there is a name you probably have never heard of that arguably may be the most important

0:27.6

of all. Armando Menacal. In the late 1980s, as sport climbing began to take hold in America,

0:34.2

land managers, the people in charge of making decisions on public lands for

0:38.6

national parks, national forests, and Bureau of Land Management areas, they took note that the sport

0:43.4

was growing, and they nearly shut it down. A small group of climbers set out to save climbing.

0:51.3

Armando, a Cuban-American civil rights lawyer who'd spent a career working with

0:54.8

farm workers in California and had become a passionate climber later in life, found himself at the

0:59.5

center of climbing's defense. Today, if you clip a bolt at a crag, repel from a sling in a wilderness,

1:05.7

you have Armando to thank. That is his lasting legacy. Since Alex and I last spoke with Armando, he's been battling

1:12.9

stage four cancer. Simultaneously, American climbing has also been under threat again. At the end of

1:19.8

2003, the National Park and National Forest Service issued a draft climbing management plan that would

1:25.4

have banned fixed anchors in wilderness areas.

1:28.5

So bolts, repel anchors, slings, in places like Yosemite, Rocky Mountain National Park,

1:35.3

Joshua Tree, Red Rock.

1:37.3

Fortunately, the climbing community spoke up and the proposal was temporary tabled, but it

1:42.0

illuminated that climbing isn't a right. It's something we have to

1:46.3

care and stand up for. To celebrate his life and work, the Access Fund created the Armando

1:51.4

Menacal Climbing Advocacy Fund. In this fall, we may, in fact, have a chance to protect

...

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