4.8 • 849 Ratings
🗓️ 30 August 2024
⏱️ 42 minutes
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0:00.0 | Back in 2021, in our first season, we ran an episode called Give and Take. |
0:04.6 | It was a story about how climbing in America, climbing on public lands, nearly was banned, effectively and in climbing in America. |
0:13.5 | You know, a lot of times we think about figures like Yvonne Cheneard, Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, |
0:18.6 | some of the most important names in American climbing. |
0:20.9 | But there is a name you probably have never heard of that arguably may be the most important |
0:27.6 | of all. Armando Menacal. In the late 1980s, as sport climbing began to take hold in America, |
0:34.2 | land managers, the people in charge of making decisions on public lands for |
0:38.6 | national parks, national forests, and Bureau of Land Management areas, they took note that the sport |
0:43.4 | was growing, and they nearly shut it down. A small group of climbers set out to save climbing. |
0:51.3 | Armando, a Cuban-American civil rights lawyer who'd spent a career working with |
0:54.8 | farm workers in California and had become a passionate climber later in life, found himself at the |
0:59.5 | center of climbing's defense. Today, if you clip a bolt at a crag, repel from a sling in a wilderness, |
1:05.7 | you have Armando to thank. That is his lasting legacy. Since Alex and I last spoke with Armando, he's been battling |
1:12.9 | stage four cancer. Simultaneously, American climbing has also been under threat again. At the end of |
1:19.8 | 2003, the National Park and National Forest Service issued a draft climbing management plan that would |
1:25.4 | have banned fixed anchors in wilderness areas. |
1:28.5 | So bolts, repel anchors, slings, in places like Yosemite, Rocky Mountain National Park, |
1:35.3 | Joshua Tree, Red Rock. |
1:37.3 | Fortunately, the climbing community spoke up and the proposal was temporary tabled, but it |
1:42.0 | illuminated that climbing isn't a right. It's something we have to |
1:46.3 | care and stand up for. To celebrate his life and work, the Access Fund created the Armando |
1:51.4 | Menacal Climbing Advocacy Fund. In this fall, we may, in fact, have a chance to protect |
... |
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