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Climbing Gold

Hot Henry

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 28 April 2023

⏱️ 43 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

In the 1970’s, no flame burned brighter than Hot Henry Barber. Often heralded as the first traveling climber, Henry redefined standards for free climbing and free soloing not just the US, but every country he visited. Along the way, he shattered egos before learning to check his own. Thanks to our sponsors! The North Face Momentous

Transcript

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0:00.0

Let's talk about 5-9, because I think by your own admission, you're maybe the professional

0:05.2

climber who's climbed the most 5-9 of professional climbers.

0:09.7

That's probably true.

0:10.8

I bet that is true.

0:12.1

I mean, Peter Croft and I are probably nearly tied.

0:16.3

Yeah, let's talk about like 5-9, because I think it's a funny grade.

0:19.0

Like today, I'm not sure that if you started climbing in the last even 10 years,

0:25.1

like you quite have the same appreciation for 59 or 59 plus as maybe you and I did

0:31.7

when we started climbing in the 90s.

0:34.3

What do we need to know about this grade?

0:36.1

Yeah, the important thing to know about 59 and especially 59 plus is that it used to be the end of the scale.

0:42.0

So there's a lot of grade compression at 5-9 and 5-9 plus because a lot of historic routes through the 50, 60, 70s,

0:50.3

you know, sort of old-school roots, you know, the scale ended there.

0:53.9

So they were like, well,

0:54.7

it's as hard as anything we've ever done. So let's call it 5-9 because that's the top of the scale.

0:58.6

And so now it means that you can, you know, nowadays you can get on a route that's sort of old

1:02.9

school 5-9 and you're like, geez, Louise, this feels like 5-11 or like, you know, at least 10 C or something and I think there's also something to be said that a lot of

1:12.2

the old five-nines are a particular kind of style that are extra hard for somebody learning how to

1:18.9

climb in a gym because a lot of the styles of climbing that were achievable for somebody in

1:25.0

low-performance climbing shoes using petons and things like that are basically wide cracks and chimneys and like

1:30.3

Things where it doesn't require standing under tip toes and you know really tricky maneuvers

1:36.3

It's more like hard work with your whole body and that's the type of thing that's really hard to learn in a climbing gym and so

...

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