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Climbing Gold

Jamie Logan: Going The Distance

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 11 October 2024

⏱️ 66 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

5.13 at 78. That’s staggering, but the numbers don’t capture the breadth of Jamie Logan’s climbing career, which now spans seven decades. Through every chapter of our sport, Jamie has been a contributor from pioneering free climbing in the 1960’s to leading design trends of the modern gym. The risk she took in her 70’s may ultimately prove to be the most lasting pillar of her legacy. Never be afraid of who you are.  Watch Jamie film at bit.ly/JamieLogan Thanks to our sponsors The North Face  COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.  Altitude Climbing Learn the three key elements needed to make progress again from Dave Macleod. Sign-up for the course at altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold. LMNT Get a free LMNT sample pack with any order at bit.ly/LMNTxCG Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube

Transcript

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0:00.0

Alex, what is a bong?

0:02.0

A bong. A bong is a big peeton, so named for the sound that it makes when you bonging into the crack.

0:09.0

But I feel like it's maybe a little bit dated now.

0:13.0

Yeah. Skylar, who is our producer here on the show, was editing today's episode, and he's like's like turns to me as like what is a bong

0:22.5

and i was like do we need to have like a conversation about drugs right now or like that's amazing

0:28.3

i think that for a modern climber who started climbing in the last few years it's really hard to

0:34.4

appreciate how different climbing was in the 1960s. You don't have a harness.

0:38.3

You don't have a belated ice.

0:39.3

You're literally just wrapping the rope around your waist and holding onto it to try to catch people.

0:43.3

And then there's no climbing gear, really.

0:45.3

And so you're using petons, like basically just big chunks of metal and just hammering them into cracks.

0:51.3

And so you have a sling around your shoulder with a bunch of chunks of metal hanging

0:54.6

off it, and then you have a hammer hanging off your side. And you're wearing basically work

0:58.4

boots, and you have a rope tied around your waist. And so it's all just way more extreme and

1:04.5

sort of physical than what we think of as rock climbing now. I mean, rock climbing now, ideally is sort

1:09.2

of balletic or, you know, like a,

1:11.2

like this beautiful artistic dance up the wall. But 1960s climbing is not beautiful and artistic.

1:17.5

It's just like groveling up wide cracks and hammering away. It's all much more blue color. It's

1:21.5

like hard manual labor. Today's guest has essentially been climbing the entire duration of modern climbing.

1:29.0

She was part of the in-between generation that connected Royal Robbins, Fred Becky, Yvonne

1:33.5

Janard to the Stone Masters.

1:36.2

Alex, who is Jamie Logan?

...

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