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Climbing Gold

Kai Lightner: Return To Form

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 14 June 2024

⏱️ 50 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Kai Lightner is on a tear. When we last spoke with Kai, his path in professional climbing was unclear. He’d struggled with disordered eating, injuries, and growing into his adult body after a decade of success in competition and his path back to the upper limits of climbing seemed uncertain. Last year, Kai turned his attention to climbing outside and took the emphasis off results. An incredible string of sends followed, and once again Kai has found himself at the forefront.   Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any drink mix order  Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get 20% any purchase (new customers only) AeroPress use promo code CLIMBINGGOLD to save 20% off your order  COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.

Transcript

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0:00.0

Alex, do you feel like there's been chapters in your career?

0:04.1

Like when you look back, are there very delineated periods of time?

0:09.5

It's hard to say.

0:10.5

I don't really know if I have chapters.

0:11.7

I have pre-free solo and post-free solo for sure.

0:14.8

And then I also have years where I have sort of climbing performance years versus

0:20.5

climbing adventure years. Some years I went

0:22.6

on way more expeditions and just traveled more. And then other years where I buckled down at home

0:26.8

and trained harder and tried to climb my hardest. So I sort of alternated styles a little bit,

0:31.5

but I don't know about chapters. A lot of people do go through that where they'll be like, oh yeah,

0:36.5

that was the time where I was spending a lot of time in the valley or, you know, where I was like really in a sport climbing or a period where I was the peak of my capabilities.

0:45.3

And it's interesting because I think we've been doing this show long enough now that some of the people we've talked to in that first year have gone through like a segment or a chapter in their career and lives.

0:58.3

Yeah, though often I feel like you can't really tell chapters until much later in somebody's life

1:02.4

when you can start to see it in retrospect.

1:05.1

Though I feel like in this case, our guest has definitely turned a page into a new chapter.

1:09.9

It feels like it's hard to say, but suddenly has just come seemingly back out of nowhere.

1:16.1

I don't know, when we talked to him four years ago, I felt like he was in a wildly different place.

1:19.1

And talking to him this time, it's so exciting.

1:22.0

It's interesting to see.

1:22.7

It's just a whole different thing.

1:24.5

So, Kai Leitner, he was a phenom. He was one of those people that came onto the scene at a pretty young age in their lives and

1:32.7

was turning heads.

...

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