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Climbing Gold

Roundtable: Strength Vs Technique

Climbing Gold

Duct Tape Then Beer

Sports, Wilderness

4.8849 Ratings

🗓️ 12 May 2023

⏱️ 43 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

Philosophy professor and member of the exclusive 5.14 after 60 club, Bill Ramsey has a bone to pick with those who value strength over technique. In this roundtable discussion, we dive into our bias towards power and Bill’s concept of the pain box. Nothing’s worse than the pain of sucking. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Momentous

Transcript

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0:00.0

Hey Alex.

0:08.6

So who is Bill Ramsey, our guest today?

0:14.6

Bill Ramsey is a philosophy professor at UNLV, University of Nevada, Las Vegas.

0:20.0

He's also, you know, he's one of my neighbors.

0:21.4

But he used to be a professor at Notre Dame.

0:23.1

He's established roots at the Red River Gorge and sort of all around the country.

0:27.7

And he's been climbing quite a long time.

0:29.9

But he's now in his 60s and still climbing 514.

0:33.6

So he is

0:40.3

Bill Ramsey is a physical specimen He is yeah I don't even know how you do but I mean actually I think one of the interesting things about Bill Ramsey is that by any

0:48.3

quantifiable measure of strength he is quite a bit stronger than me because like his fingers are way stronger

0:53.3

He can do more reps of

0:54.7

things he do things with more weight and I'm like man you have a full-time job as a philosophy professor

0:59.6

and you're in your 60s and you're still just objectively stronger than me in pretty much every way I'm

1:04.4

like how is that even how is that a thing he's he's known he's known for doing max hangs and like you know basically finger training in the house before he goes to the crag and then doing a hard session at the crag where he projects some 514 that he's working on and then go into the bouldering gym afterward to sort of cool down and make sure he doesn't lose any power.

1:24.7

And you're like, man, you're a 60-year-old man.

1:27.2

Like, can you do three sessions a day?

1:28.9

Like, I don't even want to do that. It's pretty impressive. I mean, they are literally legendary.

1:33.8

I mean, the Vegas community people all make jokes about Bill's training routines. I think the

1:39.4

reason that Bill's training routine is so over the top is because he's been doing it since the 1980s or you know he's been

1:45.9

climbing and training at a high level for you know more than 30 years and there have been so many

1:52.2

you know different sort of training fads and modalities and things that have gone in and out of fashion

...

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