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Good Food

The legacy of Socorro "Mama" Herrera, Panda Inn reopens, chicories

Good Food

KCRW

Society & Culture

4.51K Ratings

🗓️ 7 March 2025

⏱️ 57 minutes

🧾️ Download transcript

Summary

The story behind the famous orange chicken at Panda Express and more!

  • Dora Herrera remembers her mother, Socorro, who took orders at Yuca's in Los Feliz for nearly 50 years.
  • Tejal Rao visits the renovated Panda Inn, where a precursor to orange chicken took flight.
  • Honor May Eldridge follows our obsession with the Hass avocado, which was developed right here, in Southern California.
  • In his new cookbook, Tu David Phu reconciles his family's trauma with his perceptions of what ingredients are deemed worthy.
  • In shades of pinks and greens, farmers market chicories are favored by chefs for creating balance in dishes. 

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Transcript

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0:00.0

From KCRW, I'm Evan Kleiman, and this is good food.

0:05.0

I'm going to Yuccas, the little hut on Hillhurst, near Los Felis, since they opened in 1976.

0:13.0

Known to many as Mama, or Mama Yucas, Socorro Herrera defined Mexican food for nearly 50 years in Los Angeles, perched on a chair at the counter,

0:23.9

taking orders and writing customers' names on paper bags or plates, she passed away in late

0:30.0

December after a brief illness. Her daughter, Dora Herrera, operates the Pasadena location of

0:36.7

Yuccas and joins us with remembrances of her mom and the legacy

0:40.6

she leaves behind. My name is Dora Herrera. I am the daughter of Mama Yucas, also known as

0:52.3

Maria del Carmen Socorro Herrera, Sosa Suarez.

0:56.7

It's a mouthful and so is my mom.

1:00.7

And my official title is president of the Yucas restaurant group.

1:06.4

But what I really am is a mini-me, sharing love and good food

1:12.6

and creating good vibes, just like my mom taught me.

1:18.6

Mom was the firstborn to a father who wanted nothing more than a little boy.

1:30.8

And so he decided since he got a little girl,

1:36.4

he would just continue her education as a little boy.

1:43.5

And so mom grew up in Merida, Yucatan, doing all sorts of crazy things.

1:48.8

He would take her to bullfights, and she'd be the first one to get a drink of the blood of the bull,

1:51.9

which, you know, in retrospect, we all go, ew!

1:53.9

But, you know, that was then.

1:58.2

My grandfather would stop at all the bars along the way,

2:05.8

and eventually my mom had her own little table with a little beer glass and a little plate and she would sit outside because, you know, she wasn't allowed in there.

2:09.9

And so that was her life.

...

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